I’m back from the world’s toughest motor cycle trip through the Himalaya’s. A 13-day trip including the world’s highest drivable pass.
Our mission.
We enlisted on a trip organized by a Norwegian company, Indian Adventures who offer motorcycle trips primarily in Asia. Rolf and I have been on a trip with them before and had an idea what we were in for. This year’s trip was “The world’s highest MC trip!” A travel through the Indian Himalaya mountain range. We had 13 days on the bikes whereof one day of rest. We covered 1563 kilometers, 6 mountain passes, 4 with an altitude over 5000 meters and 2 just below. One pass, Kardung La, is rated as the world’s highest.
En route we visited villages, temples, monasteries and local sites of interest. The roads can best be described as prepare for the unexpected. We drove on wonderful asphalt, gravel, stones, landslide remnants, rivers and streams. Many of which would never qualify as roads in our part of the world. Many challenges, which we proudly overcame. On the bright side, we experienced unbelievable nature sights and views. We also witnessed a small view into Indian/Himalayan folklore and culture. More would be high on the wish list. Time did not allow for more. This trip will be a lifelong memory. The bikes were the means but the trip was so much more.
The MC/Motorcycle. The brand Royal Enfield is based on English 1950-60 technology refined in India adding a disc brake and electric start. A single 500CC engine with the amazing output of 22,5 horse power! Not a racer by any means. When speeding at 80km.h the machine vibrates and wobbles. The upside is that the bike works well on the Indian roads and manages to get one through the worst obstacles. Below the machine:
Who we are!
“We” is myself (Gunnar) and my good friend and neighbor Rolf Grant Johnsen. In total, we were a group of 19 participants plus 2 leaders. Some had prior off road MC experience which was a great advantage. Others only paved road experience. I fell into the latter category.
The two leaders, Willie and Frank were experienced off road drivers and had done the trip several times. They did a great job in choice of routes. They and the rest of the group contributed socially and the atmosphere within was great. Our only female participant Randi had only paved road experience but learned quickly how to handle the poor gravel roads. She did a brilliant job of updating the travel blog for the team. Finally, yet importantly are our mechanics and the accompanying van with our baggage. We carried the bare necessities on the bikes. The van was a rolling workshop with spares and our luggage. One driver, Lokesh Kumar, and four mechanics. Fantastic people who fixed everything on the fly. Punctures, clutches, wheel rims, daily maintenance and carburetor adjustments in to the late evening hours. The mechanic Capo de touti Capo is Darmender. He was brilliant. His motto is: “You speak, I fix!.” He is employed by Indian Adventures and worth his weight in gold and key to the success of the trip.
Day 1 and 2
We arrived in New Delhi late evening August 22nd. The following day was sightseeing day. The most handsome sight was our driver:
We witnessed a lot of poverty where the street is their home here shown in the below picture.
She survives by selling hot coal to be used for heating meals. Her spot here is probably her home.
Day 3
We boarded the northbound express train from Delhi to Kalka at the foot of the Himalaya’s. Where we transferred to the Toy Train to Shimla. The British Empire summer HQ in India. The poor Brit’s needed a temperate climate thus avoiding the scorching summer in Calcutta, which then was the Indian capital. The Brit’s brought all their files and archives with them to govern the country. Shimla is located at 2200 meter above sea level. To allow for the logistic challenge of transporting tons of files and people they built the train track in 5 years. It opened in 1903 and is a classic trip on Unesco’s world heritage list and found in Guinness book of records as the worlds steepest train ride.
It was great to leave the Indian plains, crawl our way along the valley and watch the view passing by.
Day 4 – Bike day 1
We stayed the night at the old governor residence from 1938 and were allocated our motorcycles. A crash course in Indian traffic behaviour was provided. In short, “survival of the fittest and not for the faint hearted.” To gain the right of way, use your horn, demand a space and keep together with the group. The most important feature is the HORN. Use it all the time or you will be ignored. Used it in blind curves, when passing and when in doubt.
We were very fortunate with the weather. Rain was predicted but we had sunshine and not a drop of rain. It did get a little too warm and beneath our protective clothing. We were drenched in sweat. The first day was through green valleys and hills on paved roads.
The part of India is densely populated with people living everywhere. Understandable as this is great climate compared to the plains. The monsoon rain gives life to nature.
The last leg of the day gave us a flavor of what to expect. Our destination was a hotel high up on a hillside. The proper road was closed as a bridge had vanished in a landslide. The only alternative was a 4-5km steep, curvy, stony gravel path/road. We managed that challenge and arrived in the town of Sarahan.
Day 5 – Bike day 2
The first item of the day was to visit a temple for 3 religions, Christian, Buddhist and Hindu. Religious tolerance is greater in the Himalaya’s than in other parts of India. Tolerance in one thing but sharing a place of worship is another. There were strict rules to follow before entry. Belts off, no cameras or cellphones. Here are some of us before entry.
We had to use the same stony gravel path/road down to the valley. Resulting in 3 bikes down. No damage or injuries. Just a warning of what could lie ahead on bad roads.
We encountered heavy traffic on the main road heading north. Heavily loaded Trucks, buses and Indian kamikaze car drivers. Where the asphalt was worn out to “rock bottom” potholes were filled with stones and gravel. Not ideal conditions for a motorcycle.
Traffic jams in India are usually in both directions due to everybody believing that they have the right of way. Nobody gives an inch. Reversing is for pussies even when two trucks were wedged together. You never know if police presence make things worse or better. However, low and behold in this case it actually helped.
That is when the trucks hit the gas and spewed out black diesel exhaust.
One thing is traffic and roadwork. Then there are holy cows and dogs. Holy cows own the road and move around as they see fit. Nobody chases them or try to move them, they are king.
Here a resting dog joins them.
The last leg of the day was interesting. To get to our camp for night we drove on the below road that was chiseled out of the mountainside. The drop off a couple of hundred meters was not tempting.
Our reward for staying on the road was our first and finest camp. These permanent tents have two beds and a bathroom with a WC and shower.
The tents are taken down during winter when snow isolates the valley from the world.
Day 6 – Bike day 3
The day started with a visit to a village on the other side of the river running through the valley. We had a local guide which proved interesting. The village was prosperous and their source of income was apples. Here one of the trees.
The guide claimed that these apples were of the best quality and mainly produced for export. One farmer here apparently gets the same price per kilo as a Norwegian apple farmer in Hardanger. Taking the Indian cost of living into consideration then these are indeed Golden Apples.
The village showed many signs of prosperity. Both the school and the below temple is evidence.
Nor is this a population of prudes!
The people in the region, both men and women wear the below hat/headgear.
Men are more open for contact than the shyer women are.
As mentioned above the village is wealthy and new building construction under way. Their construction technics differ from our standards. However, it evidently works.
The village is completely isolated between November and March as the altitude is 3000 meters.